Kari Schibevaag heads north to Tromsø in Norway to see if she can paddle board with the orcas and other whales that head there each winter to feed!

Kari Schibevaag explores the Norwegian coastline looking for whales in for far north…

I’mlying down, looking up at the sky. The northern lights are dancing around, while stars shoot from the heavens.  I can just about hear the sound of the water and waves lapping up against the side of the boat. Other than this, it’s totally quiet, the darkness envelops everything and I can’t see anything else around me.

It’s October, and I am on Barba, a sailing yacht in the north of Norway, I've been on this boat for the past six weeks, and it’s been a crazy trip up the Norwegian coastline. If you think Norway is a small country just take a look at the map and you will see that it stretches 103,000 kilometres.

I can also tell you that we have the most beautiful coastline in the world. If you don't believe me, just take the time to visit one day, the vast green mountains and crystal blue fjords are sure you win your heart over.

We started out in Stavanger my hometown in the south of Norway, and the goal was to sail to Tromsø in the north. The boat was packed with all kinds of toys and there were four of us along with one super dog sailing out of Stavanger on the 1st of October.

Plenty of people advised me not to join this adventure before we left, and with good reason. Winter is fast approaching, and on the coast, that means storm after storm. A small yacht is arguably not the best place to be in these cold, harsh conditions.

Just three days before we set sail there was a ferocious storm, and I have to say I was a bit nervous that this weather would continue throughout October. However, the day we sailed, the sun was shining against the blue skies, would you believe that six weeks later the sun was still shining! Was it luck? I don’t know, but I can't remember an October in my lifetime that has enjoyed such stunning weather!

The coast of Norway is both beautiful and mind blowing. You become intertwined with the nature that surrounds you on all sides. All manner of flora and fauna can be seen while the stunning white sand beaches contrast with the massive snow capped mountains. All the while the crystal clear water laps at the side of the boat and there isn't another soul around.

This area is almost entirely uninhabited which adds to the majesty of the surroundings. With a sailing boat, it's so easy to access all these amazing spots; with the addition of a SUP it is even better!

We moored up at many different locations on the way and went exploring in remote areas with SUP's. Hiking, SUP, snorkelling, sleeping in a tent, fishing, looking at the northern lights and much more. We enjoyed so many amazing experiences and were blessed with this stunning weather for the duration of the trip.

Nature is crazy when you think about it. You can use the power of the wind to move along the coast with the boat. You can see all these wonderful places by just harnessing the power that nature is freely giving you. That made the whole adventure even more incredible for me; the silence of the wind in the sails as we cruised up the coast, just driven along by this powerful force was so humbling.

On the way to Tromsø we heard that the whales had already arrived. It was one of our goals to be there when they arrived. We sped up the last part of our journey to be sure to catch these amazing creatures. As we entered the area outside of Tromsø, the orcas were swimming around the boat welcoming us.

Without hesitating, we jumped in and were swimming and SUPing around them. What an incredible welcome!

The days flew by, and we stayed around Tromsø sailing, SUPing, swimming and observing the whales. I was here last year too, but I have to say this time was even more special. I wasn't so nervous around these big mammals, we were getting closer to them, and they happily played all around us.

The first time I was on the SUP, the orcas were swimming around the board just looking at me. They were checking me out, who I was and what I was doing. I admit I was a bit shaky when they came up only inches from the board, but after a while, I felt they were just friends swimming around us. The SUP board is so quiet, and you are sliding through the water with no noise, but still they know who you are and that you are there. It's just amazing to think about.

The orcas are big, but the humpback whales are even bigger. When they showed up, it was as if the intensity of the experience was doubled. They were all around my SUP, but I knew they were taking care not to knock me off.

After some time on the SUP, I jumped into the water with them. It's amazing to see them swim around underwater and with a snorkel and mask you can truly experience them in their environment. They move so gracefully in the water; the orcas look almost like big teddy bears. Until of course, one gives you a smile!

It's also really special to see them feed. They are so big, but they just eat one small fish at a time. Yes, I am talking about the Orcas now. The humpbacks are of course feeding like it was the last meal of the year! They come from underneath and open their mouths hoping to fill them with as much herring as they can. When this is happening, you don't want to be floating on the surface in their way!

During my last SUP session, I headed out as the sun was starting to dip low on the horizon. Suddenly the orcas appeared and played with me. I was in the middle of the vast ocean together with these huge animals. There was snow on the mountains, calm seas and fantastic light. The light is magic up here at this time of year, it's the Arctic pink, warm light, as I like to call it.

The whales knew I was there and they were swimming around me while I was paddling. Five of them were just in front of the board, swimming with me before they dived down and then popped up again. I felt a connection as if I was there together with them, swimming and having fun in the sunset. 

My heart was pumping, but after so many times in the water with them, I knew they had full control. I knew they could quickly move away from me; I also knew that if they wanted to harm me, the orcas could, but the question is why don’t they?

In 2011 I tried to ride with the orcas when we were making a TV program, at this time I did not manage it. We did a lot of research with whale experts, and they all told me the whales don't feel threatened by human interaction at this level. When I was out there with them on this trip, I thought about this and was making sure I didn't go to them. It was the whales coming to me, and I was careful not to change course and speed when they were around.  They were in full control, and they decided to be with me.

After one of the most truly magical experiences of my life, it was time to head back down south as winter took hold. The nights were getting longer and longer, and it was time to head home and relive the memories through the photographs and videos that we had made.

We'll be back soon, though, once you've experienced something like this it stays with you, leaving you wanting more...Tromsø we will return!

By Kari Schibevaag

Comments